Staple Gun (A3-Steel)

The work it does is fixing thin material to a timber substrate: upholstery fabric and webbing, insulation, roofing felt and building paper, plastic sheeting and vapour barriers, thin ply and hardboard backs, carpet underlay, fly screen mesh, and cable runs where a staple is acceptable. In all of those, a nail would be slow, would need a hand to hold it, and would often split or punch through what is being fixed. A staple has two legs and a crown that spreads the hold across the material.

This is the A3 steel model, built from fine steel with a chrome-plated handle. Steel construction is what a staple gun needs: the mechanism throws a hardened striker against a spring at speed, thousands of times, and a light frame flexes and starts to misfire. A gun that half-drives staples, leaving them proud to be hammered flat one by one, is worse than no gun at all.

It takes #620836 and #620838 staples. Using the correct staple is more important than it sounds — the wrong length or crown width jams the magazine, and a jammed staple gun under spring tension is awkward and slightly dangerous to clear.

The safety is straightforward and worth stating. Never point it at anyone or rest your hand behind the work; a staple driven into a finger goes in easily. Keep it flat and firmly against the surface — a gun held at an angle fires a staple that skids sideways and can come out of the material at speed. Disconnect nothing here, but do keep fingers away from the nose when clearing a jam, since the mechanism is still under spring load.

The buyers are upholsterers, carpenters and joiners, roofers fixing felt, insulation installers, shopfitters and display builders, and maintenance staff.

We stock the staples and the three-use gun that also fires brad nails. Message us on WhatsApp and we will price a gun with a supply of staples, delivered island-wide.