Masonry Saw (650)

Ordinary saw teeth are steel, and steel against masonry loses immediately — a wood saw used on aerated block or brick is blunt within a few strokes. Carbide is far harder than the aggregate it is cutting, so the teeth keep their edge through material that would destroy a conventional blade. Seventeen widely spaced teeth is the right arrangement for masonry: coarse spacing gives each tooth room to take a real bite and leaves space for the dust to clear, which is what stops the blade binding in the cut.

The practical case for it is that a hand saw beats a power tool for a small amount of cutting. An angle grinder or a cut-off saw makes an enormous amount of airborne silica dust, needs power and a disc, and cannot cut a curve or a notch. This saw cuts aerated block, lightweight block and soft brick quietly, with no power, and it will cut a curve, an L-shape or a slot for a service — which is exactly what block work around openings, ducts and cable runs requires.

The blade is 65Mn spring steel, heat treated. Spring steel is right for a saw plate because it flexes through the cut and returns straight rather than taking a permanent set, and a plate that has set binds in its own kerf.

The handle is soft TPR, which grips with dusty or damp hands.

A few points on use. Let the saw do the work with long steady strokes rather than forcing it — the carbide teeth cut by abrasion, and pressing harder just wears them faster. Support the block so the offcut cannot break away and snap the blade near the end of the cut. And wear a dust mask: masonry dust contains silica, and cutting even by hand produces plenty of it. Eye protection too.

Carbide teeth are hard and therefore brittle, so avoid twisting the blade in the cut, which chips them.

The buyers are masons and block layers, builders and site carpenters, electricians and plumbers chasing and notching blockwork, and maintenance crews.

Ask on WhatsApp and we will price it with dust protection, delivered island-wide.