Tile and Glass Drill Bit (6mm)

A tile is a facing, not a structure. It is a few millimetres thick and it is stuck to something, and whatever it is stuck to is what actually carries the load. So the sequence for a heavier fixing is that the tile bit gets you through the tile, and then a different bit takes over for the material behind.

That handover is the part that goes wrong. Once the carbide spear has broken through the glaze and the body of the tile, it is into render, block, brick or board, and it is not the right tool for any of them. A tile bit pushed on into masonry drills slowly, blunts, and often widens the hole in the tile as it wanders, which leaves a ragged edge around a fixing that will be visible forever. The correct move is to stop the moment you are through the tile, change to a masonry bit of the same diameter, and carry on. Keep the hammer off until the tile bit is out of the hole and the masonry bit is in.

If the wall behind turns out to be plasterboard rather than masonry, a plug will not hold anything substantial and you need a proper cavity fixing instead.

Six millimetres takes the plugs used for heavier bathroom and kitchen fittings, cabinets, shower screens, grab rails and water heaters.

Slow speed, keep it cool, no hammer through the tile.

YG6X carbide tip, 1/4 inch quick release hex shank.

Buyers are tilers, plumbers, bathroom and kitchen installers, shopfitters and hardware shops.

Message 94 77 111 8880 and we will match the tile bit, the masonry bit and the fixing. Delivered island-wide.