5Pcs Masonry Drill Set

Masonry bits have a tip of tungsten carbide brazed onto a steel body, ground to a broad angle, and they work by crushing and chipping stone rather than cutting a chip the way a twist drill does. That specialisation is what makes them right for brick, block and light concrete, and wrong for everything else. Put one in steel and it will scrape and skid and blunt. Put one in tile and it will crack the glaze and probably the tile. Put a twist drill in a wall and it will be blunt in seconds. Matching the bit to the material is the single most useful thing a hardware shop can tell a customer, and it is why these three families of bit exist separately.

Notice how the lengths climb with the diameters, from 4x75 up to 10x120. That is deliberate rather than incidental: a bigger fixing needs a deeper hole, because a larger plug or anchor only develops its holding power at depth. A short 10mm hole with a long 10mm plug in it is a fixing waiting to pull out.

These have cylindrical shanks, so they fit an ordinary drill chuck and are meant for a hammer drill rather than an SDS machine. Use the hammer setting; a masonry bit in rotation only will polish the hole instead of cutting it.

The spec limits them to brick, masonry block and light concrete, and that limit is honest. Structural concrete, and anything with reinforcement in it, wants an SDS rotary hammer and the SDS-PLUS bits we list separately. A hammer drill in hard concrete is slow, hot and disappointing, and it is the machine at fault rather than the bit.

Buyers are electricians, plumbers, carpenters, maintenance men, householders and hardware shops.

Message 94 77 111 8880 and tell us the wall and the fixing, and we will match the bit, the plug and the machine. Delivered island-wide.