Booster Cable

These are rated 220A for 12 and 24 volt systems, which covers cars, vans, three-wheelers and the 24V systems used in trucks, buses and plant. The 24V capability matters locally, because a great many working vehicles here are 24V and a car-only set is no use to them.

The conductor is CCA — copper-clad aluminium. Being straight about that: CCA carries less current than solid copper of the same diameter, because aluminium is the less conductive metal. It is lighter and less expensive, and for occasional starting duty at this rating it works. If you are jump-starting heavy diesels every day as a matter of routine, pure copper cable is the better long-term buy.

The insulation is rated to −35°C, which in Sri Lanka is irrelevant for cold but tells you something useful anyway: PVC rated for that temperature stays flexible rather than going stiff and cracking, and a cable that has gone stiff is one that will not lie where you put it under a bonnet. TUV/GS certification means the assembly has been independently tested rather than merely labelled.

The clamps are B09-6 plastic-bodied, which insulates the parts your hands touch.

The procedure matters more than the cable. Connect red to the flat battery's positive, red to the good battery's positive, black to the good battery's negative, and the final black clamp to an unpainted metal point on the flat vehicle's engine or chassis — not to its negative terminal. That last connection is deliberate: a battery being charged gives off hydrogen, and the small spark made at the final connection should happen away from the battery rather than on top of it. Disconnect in reverse order. Never let the clamps touch each other while any of them are connected.

And never jump-start a battery that is frozen, cracked or visibly leaking.

The buyers are drivers and fleets keeping a set in every vehicle, taxi and three-wheeler operators, garages and roadside assistance, and agricultural and plant operators.

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