Cable Cutter (36")

Two things become important at this size. The first is that the leverage is now considerable, and the blades are ground fine for shearing soft conductor. That combination means the tool will happily generate enough force to destroy itself on the wrong material. The specification is explicit — copper and aluminium — and at this size the temptation is greatest, because a 36 inch tool feels like it should cut anything. Steel wire, steel wire armour, chain and nails will chip these blades on the first attempt, and a chipped cable cutter tears and crushes cable from then on, which on expensive conductor is a costly fault to carry. Cut steel armour with a hacksaw or a dedicated armour cutter, and use these on the conductors underneath.

The second is the quality of the end, which is the entire reason to use a cable cutter rather than any other method. Opposing crescent blades gather the strands and shear them together, holding the conductor round rather than crushing it flat. A round end enters a lug properly and crimps evenly; a flattened, splayed end does not fill the barrel evenly, giving a crimp with higher resistance that runs warm under load. On a heavy current circuit that is how a connection eventually fails, and on a cable pulled to length through a duct there may be no spare to cut back and try again.

The blades are hardened T8 steel with steel handles and rubber grips.

The buyers are utility and supply authority contractors, electrical contractors on distribution and sub-main work, switchgear and transformer installers, industrial and plant electricians, and hardware dealers supplying the electrical trade.

The safety rule is unchanged and worth repeating on the biggest tool: rubber grips are for comfort and grip and carry no tested electrical insulation rating. Never cut a live conductor with them. Isolate the circuit, prove it dead with a two-pole tester before and after, and only then cut. Message us on WhatsApp for a price.