Wall Board Saw (6"/150mm, 65Mn)

The short 150mm blade is the point. A long saw cannot work in the middle of a sheet — there is nowhere for it to go, and it flexes and tears the board face. A short, stiff blade stays under control and lets you cut a neat rectangle for a socket box, a switch plate, a downlight or an access hatch, working from the face of a wall that is already fixed in place.

The blade is heat-treated 65Mn manganese spring steel with teeth hardened past HRC 53. Board is far more abrasive on teeth than timber is — gypsum and its paper facing blunt steel quickly — so hardened teeth matter more here than on a wood saw. They are ground on two sides for a sharp edge and quick chip clearance, which on plasterboard means the dust falls out of the kerf instead of packing in and binding the blade.

The soft TPR handle gives grip for the firm, controlled push that starting a cut in the middle of a board needs.

A word on technique, because this is a tool people misuse. Plunge in at a steep angle at the corner of your marked opening, cut to the line with short strokes, and keep the blade square to the face — running the saw at an angle produces a tapered hole that the plate will not cover. If you are cutting an opening in an existing wall, check what is behind it first: cables and pipes run in the same voids, and a stiff saw will go straight through both.

The buyers are drylining and ceiling fixers above all, then electricians cutting back boxes into existing walls, air-conditioning and ventilation installers, and shopfitters. Maintenance carpenters use them for access panels and patch repairs. Hardware shops serving the interiors trade sell them alongside board, tape and jointing compound.

We also carry the 300mm mini saw if you want something short but for timber rather than board. Ask on WhatsApp and we will price them together, delivered island-wide.